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Whatever we say about Lefkimmi is inadequate.
It’s a different world, a separate one. Women on donkeys take the road
back from their fields. On the roofs of houses, people place bottles of
wine and oil to “ensure the house lacks nothing good”. In the west, Lake
Korisson is bordered by rare cedar woods. At the southern tip, the evocative
forest of Arkoudillas surrounds the Monastery of the Blessed Virgin Mary,
dating from 1700. To the east, a lighthouse stands on the Lefkimmi headland,
by 15th century salt pans. More vines grow in the fields than anywhere
else in Corfu.
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Leaving Corfu Town, three different routes
lead you south. The first runs down the east coast, by way of the villages
of Benitses and Moraitika, formerly fishing villages and now tourist destinations
along the lines of Monte Carlo, with bars and business at every turn. The
second road heads inland through Agii Deka, taking a route through olive
groves. The third way, hugging the slopes of Agios Matheos Mountain, takes
you through the main village of the area, Aghios Matheos, with panoramic
views of the Ionan Sea. Then these three ways rejoin, at a spot by a bridge.
Mountain and sea, desolation and crowds cease here. From here on it’s one
way only, a wide and straight way, to the South of Corfu.
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Lefkimmi (Alefkimmo)
has a long history. Archaeologists believe that settlements existed at
Arkoudillas, at Boro (near Neohori) and at Boukari as far back as Paleolithic
and Neolithic times. At that time the sea between Gardiki and Vitalades
reached the level of today’s main road. Thucydides mentions the naval battle
between Corfu and Corinth, which took place off the Lefkimmi headland around
435-434 BS. Preserved archaic traditions, Byzantine buildings and various
written texts provide proof of continuous human occupation in the area,
even though frequent barbarian raids caused depopulation. During Venetian
times, Greeks fleeing from Turkish-occupiedareas built whole villages.
Today the South of Corfu has a population of 10.000, around half residing
within the borders of the Municipality of Lefkimmi, which covers the area
south of Vitalades.
The Lefkimmiots are bound to the soil by their history. Independent, they hold to their traditions and (mainly agricultural) way of life. Living far from the protection of the town, they bore the brunt of the barbarian raids, but retained their Hellenistic spirit and culture with great passion. Spontaneity, wine and song, together with hard work in the fields, exist hand in hand in the most original way of life on the island. |
Crossing the bridge which divides the centre of the island from the south, a road goes right, signposted to Agios Matheos. It runs in a northwesterly direction, and then a smaller road goes off the left, towards Agios Matheos Camping, Gardiki, Alonaki, finally reaching the Ionian Sea at Lake Korission.
Gardiki: is a low foothill of the Agios Matheos mountain range on which stands the ruined octagonal walls of a Byzantine fortress. It was probably built during the 13th century by Michael the Despot of Epirus, who also built the fortress of Angelokastro. It has eight decorated towers, built using materials from archaic times. A study in 1824 by the Sicilian, Dr Benza, who lived in Corfu, brought to light a legend told by people living in the area. According to this tale, a queen and her court once lived in the castle. The villages told him that they used to see the queen driving a carriage towards Prinilas (a market town near Vranganiotika which no longer exists), and they pointed out the road she took. According to Joseph Parts, there never was such a queen; significant, though, is another legend which mentions that the gates of the castle were opened by silver keys…
After Gardiki, the road continues south, becomes
a track and reaches the north-west corner of Lake Korisson at Mesavrisi.
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Lake Korission: actually a lagoon, is long and narrow and extends over an area of 1500 acres, in which the local communities have applied systematic fish farming. With the Ionian Sea washing onto Halikounas Beach across a spit of land, it is a magic spot, where sea and sand harmonise, and the view is rounded off with beautiful sunsets. The track runs on and ends at the conduit between the lake and the sea. Beside the guard’s cabin with its three dogs, there is a small wooden bridge, which takes you across into a rare forest growing on sand dunes, with cedars, white lilies and 14 species of orchid. It is not hard to find the footpath through the forest, which leads eventually to the northern end of Agios Georgios Beach. But as you walk, take note of the return route, or you may get lost, unless you happen to meet a girl called Ariadne to help you. All the region, from the lake to the furthest extent of the forest, is a notable wetlands habitat, and boasts 126 bird species. Just in one day, 1700 widgeons and 300 cormorants were counted, while the endangered Great White Egret numbers over 90. But this is not the only enchantment. If you follow the track northward from the lake, you will find yourself on a low cliff above the sea, where there are benches so you can sit with a view of the open water. |
Alonaki: is a small natural harbour just as lovely as the rest of the region.
Returning to the central road, the National Road Lefkimmi, you proceed south, passing turnings to Hlomatiana. Hlomos, Agios Dimitrios and Kato Spilaio, pretty villages set on low hills with old houses and views of the surrounding area. Hlomos was the home of Thomas Palaiologos, brother of the last Byzantine Emperor and last Despot of Epirus after the occupation of the Peleponese by the Turks.
Argirades: is reached 33 kilometres from Corfu Town and is a notable village with a population of 2000. The alleyways, the arcades and the architecture of the houses are very reminiscent of the Venetian era.
Agios Georgios: just before the
village, a road to the right runs down to the beach of Agios Georgios,
which as we saw can be reached from the forest of Lake Korission. Essentially
Halikounas and Agios Georgios are one beach 10 kilometres in length, with
sand dunes, fine sand and shallow water. With this broad extent of sand,
you can be sure of finding an isolated spot, even at the height of the
tourist season. In the centre of Agios Georgios, things are somewhat different;
hotels and rented accomodation, restaurants, bars, ski, jet ski, paraflying,
parashooting, rackets and as you can imagine, people everywhere.
In the middle of Argirades, a road junction is signposted to Neohoraki,
Roumanades, Vasilatika, Kouspades, Korakades and Petriti, all villages
on the east coast, and all well worth a visit.
Neohoraki: was settled in the 19th century by Albanians, and the Gazzeta of 1847 writes of Neocori Albanese.
Petriti: in archaic times called Egripos, is a seashore village with fish tavernas, a view towards the mainland and a rich history. It belonged to the Byzantine landowner of the region, Petriti or Petretino, who granted the village to the Palatianos family, probably as a dowry. A Byzantine tower belonging to this family is intact. From Roman times remains the foundation of a brick built structure five metres in diameter, probably a grain store or a cistern.
Boukari: also a seashore villare with tavernas beside the waves, is located just north of Petriti, Archaeological studies mention the existence of a Neolithic settlement here.
Korakades: wich has ancient Hellenistic origins, suffered a landslide some 30 years ago, and the residents moved down to Petriti, taking with them their traditional tables.
Marathias: is reached five kilometres after Argirades. It was built at the start of this century by residents of Old Marathias, which once stood on a hill to the east. In 1816, this area suffered an epidemic of plague, and the governor ordering the destruction “by fire” of dwellings hit by the pestilence. The result of this prophylactic intervention was that the village of Roumanades was completely destroyed, while in Marathias a few houses were saved. The people decided to abandon the ruined village, building instead the one which stands today.
Continuing along the road, we reach Perivoli, where the church is dedicated to Agii Saranda (Forty Saints), and has frescoes dating from 1704. Roads lead from Marathias and Perivoli to Maltas, a very extensive beach with all the features of these southern shores: fine sand and shallow water.
Vitalades: is reached by way of a right turn off the main road just after Perivoli, following the sign. Here you can choose from two different beaches. At Gardeno, where the river of that name flows into the sea, there are tavernas and a broad seashore, while at Megalo Horo you will find complete solitude.
Ringlades: the first of the settlements which make up Lefkimmi, must have Byzantine roots, since its name derives from the Ringli family which lived in the regionin the Middle Ages. The village has traditional mansions and smaller houses built in simple style, asa well as two churches of Byzantine origin, Agii Anaryiri and Agios Asernios. Agii Anaryiri, a basilica with Gothic features, was built in 1899 by the architect Filonas, on the site of a 16th century church. Agios Arsenios was built about 60 years ago on the site of a Byzantine church, and has the same features as the church of Agii Anaryiri. The relics of Saint Arsenios, to whom the church is dedicated, are carried in procession on January 19th. Ringlades has a philharmonic orchestra whose band, choir, and dance section lead a traditional festival of great note on August 15th, not be missed for anything.
Anaplades: stands on the road leading towards the sea and there are two interpretations to explain the origin of its name. According to one, it was founded by soldiers from Nauplio (Anapliots), who were fleeing from the Turks. The other version says it has its roots in the old, probably Byzantine, Anopoulaios family.
The Convent of the Lady of Kokkinadas: dates from the 15th century. Two nuns live in the convent, wich was restored in 1936. A century previously the convent functioned as a relief hospital for plague victims, and a little later the Venetians burned it down to prevent the spread of the disease.
Alikes: is located on the Lefkimmi headland, where the lighthouse is a landmark for fisher men. Here, in the 15th century, a salt production business was established, functioning until recently, and buildings and installations of that period still exist.
Molos: is the name of the next beach, the spot where from long ago the fishing boats would moor to allow the fishermen to clean their nets. At dawn you can watch them come in with their baskets full, and it’s a good chance to pick up some fresh fish. These two beaches, with fine sand and shallow water, offer quiet family holidays.
The Church of the Blessed Virgin Odigitria: was built in 1510 on a little hill in the settlement of Panayia. The icon of the Virgin which is displayed in the church dates from 1560. If you enjoyed the festival at Ringlades, don’t miss the two-day festival which takes place at Panayia a week later (August 23rd).
Agii Theodori: is the next settlement with 16th century church which was restored in 1699, in 1836 and again at the start of this century.
Potami: is the name of the spot where the Lefkimmi River drains the water from the plain eastward to its outflow at the sea. The river passes through the town under a picturesque bridge, where fishermentie up their boats, a safe refuge during a hard winter. Small boys dangle fishing lines over the bridge. And Kyra Maria has a little taverna where she cooks home-style with red pepper and local olive oil, serving her dishes with Lefkimmi wine while narrating anecdotes in a remarkably vulgar dialect. This river, which has been mentioned in documents since 1618, has known great glories. It used to be the main means of transporting local agricultural produce to the sea, and from there to Corfu Town or the Epirot mainland, but fell out of use for this purpose with the improvement of the road network. At its outflow at Bouka, there is a little port where at one time a dockyard functioned. Today, beside this unspoiled beach, there is a bar run by the local community and a children’s playpark, where volleyball competitions are often organised. A philharmonic orchestra was founded at Potami in 1911.
The Church of the Blessed Virgin of the Annunciation: dating from the 15th century, is also located in Potami. A plane tree which is known to date from 1600 shades its forecourt.
Melikia: which owes its name to the Meliki family who lived there in the 15th century, is the next settlement. Here you should visit the church of Agios Isavros: which has rare wall frescoes and icons from the 16th century. From Melikia a road leads to the new Port of Lefkimmi, with ferry connections to Igoumenitsa (10 nautical miles – one hour), and traffic is heavy.
Continuing south, we pass several small junctions,
where roads lead off to quiet and clean beaches such as Agios Nikolaos,
Parakladi and Agios Petros.
Corfu is an island of contrasys, but there
is no other corner on the whole island where two spots of such great contrast
exist so close together, as the southern tip of the region of Lefkimmi;
two spots at opposite ends of the spectrum of summer holidays – Kavos and
Arkoudillas.
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Kavos: is a modern tourist resort with tavernas and restaurants, clubs and bars, a magnet of young people from all over the world, especially from Britain. It’s a place which offers frenetic activity all day long. Boats leave from Kavos for Paxos, Antipaxos and Sivota. On july 8th, the festival of the church of Agios Prokopis, just at the start of the village, takes place, with a procession the evening before with participation of the Bishop and the local philharmonic orchestras. Previously, this procession was an institution and was attended by virtually all Corfu. |
| However, as the years passed it went into decline, although now efforts
are being made to revive it. Agios Prokopios was built in the 18th century.
Seven steps lead down to the underground well, where an icon of the Blessed
Virgin Odigitrias, dating at least from 1611, was found.
Away from the noisy centre of Kavos, it is easy to find secluded spots amongst the olive groves, spots like Evyeniadis, Armeno and Pantatika, wich attract families. |
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Arkoudillas: located at Corfu’s very southernmost point, is a complete contrast to Kavos. A dense forest of cypress trees and various shrubs covers some 80 acres, bringing to mind myths and fairy tales. A walk amongst the luxuriant vegetation where you might easily lose your way is ideal for any time of day, and will take as much time as you need to find Little Red Riding Hood. The forest ends at a sheer cliff above the sea, and the view of Asprokavos headland takes the breath away. The Monastery of the Blessed Virgin, dating from 1700, is located here, with its wall and fortifications, with the storerooms of the monks and mysterious traps. The former overlords of the area, the Quartano family, have bequeathed their family emblem, showing the Lion of Venice, an ear of maize, grapes and a pomegranate. By way of a narrow footpath, you can descend to a secluted beach to swim in the clearest sea. Beyond Arkoudillas, the beach of Ai Gordis is for those who believe nature to be the most important aspect of our existence. There is only one word to describe Arkoudillas and Ai Gordis – infinite. The villages to the west, Kritika, Paleohori and Bastatika, have nothing in common with Corfu’s touristic face. Their tavernas and cafés appealto locals, but also welcome visitors who are seeking the authentic lifestyle if the southernmost tip of Corfu.
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Per informazioni o
per prenotare scrivere a: Vincent
Soueref
0030.26610.35909(uffic) 0030.26610.93209(FAX) 0030.6977.292182(cell) |
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